As someone who’s lived in Darwin for over ten years, I’ve become pretty attached to the laid-back lifestyle and open skies of the Top End. But for my 30th birthday, I wanted something different; cooler weather, great food, and the kind of quirky experiences you can’t get just anywhere. 

Words by: Stevie Herold

Hobart had been calling my name for a while now, especially after hearing about MONA from a colleague years ago, so we finally made it happen. Here's how our four days unfolded and why I’d absolutely go back.

Day 1: Arrival, Exploring, and Unexpected Sunshine

We touched down in Hobart mid-morning and were greeted by a small airport currently undergoing major renovations. If you're planning to hire a car (which I recommend), sort it out while you're waiting for your luggage our flight from Melbourne had a 30-minute wait before bags started rolling out on the carousel.

We picked up our hire car from Thrifty (taking advantage of a discount thanks to our AANT membership) and hit the road toward our hotel. We stayed at Wrest Point Hotel & Casino, chosen for its prime location and free parking. I’d call this a very comfortable mid-range stay. The hotel has been renovated, and it offers more amenities than you'd expect from a casino and restaurants to waterfront access and friendly staff who really go the extra mile. We booked a Tower Room, which was clean, modern, and super comfy. I'd absolutely stay here again.

Once settled, we jumped in the car for a relaxed drive around the area, soaking up Hobart’s gorgeous architecture, rich history, and those famous winding hills with views that honestly took our breath away. We stopped in at Battery Point Lookout for some fresh air and were lucky enough to score perfect light-cardigan weather. Locals at the lookout were welcoming and full of great recommendations about where to go and when to visit.

Next stop was a bit of retail therapy along Elizabeth Street Mall. Turns out my husband had overestimated how cold it would be and needed to grab some shorts (jeans were definitely too much for the sunny warmth with a cool breeze). The mall had all the familiar nationwide stores alongside some brilliant local sellers offering a mix of unique and interesting finds.

With the day catching up to us after a morning of travel, we headed back to the hotel for a wander through the beautiful grounds, where we were trailed by a group of cheeky ducks along the boardwalk.

Too tired to pick just one of the hotel’s many restaurants, we opted for room service and honestly, it turned out to be one of the best room service meals I’ve ever had. Fresh, hot, and genuinely delicious.

Day one down, and Hobart had already won us over.

Day 2: Markets, Mountains, and more Steak

We got up nice and early for the famous Salamanca Markets, which I’d compare to our own fantastic Mindil Beach Markets, just with a more homely, heritage vibe. Set along the beautiful sandstone backdrop of Salamanca Place, the market felt endless, stall after stall of incredible food, fresh local produce, handmade crafts, and Tassie-made treasures.

The food options were almost overwhelming in a good way. We spotted everything from steaming hot pastries to local fresh seafood. One of the standout features was how many items were made using local materials: scarves and beanies crafted from possum wool, hand-carved timber goods, and bottles of locally distilled gin that made it very tempting to stock up. After picking out a beautiful breakfast, we wandered over to the nearby Parliament House Gardens, where we sat and watched a group of children playing in the fallen autumn leaves. There was something really wholesome about that moment—Hobart feels like a proper community.

After breakfast, it was time to take on the curves of Mount Wellington. The drive up is tight and winding (not for the easily carsick), but absolutely worth it. The scenery changes quickly as you climb, from suburban streets to towering trees hugging the roadside, and then suddenly you’re above it all.

Once we reached the top, we took the shorter paths to the nearby lookouts rather than tackling the longer trail networks. I hadn’t packed for hiking, but I would 100% recommend bringing your walking shoes if you’re into nature. The views were something else, jaw-dropping, honestly. You get sweeping vistas of Hobart’s hills, harbours, and historic buildings, along with the wild, endless water stretching off into the distance. It's the kind of sight that doesn't translate through a camera; it just has to be seen to be believed.

We made our way back down the mountain and returned to the hotel for a light snack at the Bistro Café, sitting out by the water and soaking up the view. And for dinner… we ordered room service again. I know, not the most adventurous foodie move, but when the steak is that good, why mess with a winning formula? 😄

Day 3: MONA, the Pooseum, and a proper birthday steak

Day 3 was the day; the reason we’d planned this whole trip. It was my 30th birthday, and I was finally getting to experience something I’d been dreaming about for the past 3–4 years since a colleague first told me about it: MONA. Now look, I may be a creature of habit when it comes to food, but when it comes to the weird, wonderful and wacky, I absolutely cannot get enough.

We started the day a little later than usual, enjoying a well-earned sleep-in. I was thoroughly spoilt by my husband, who had somehow managed to smuggle a very thoughtful jewellery gift in his luggage. Many say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but honestly, I reckon jewellery is anyone’s best friend in today’s world 😄.

Breakfast was at Jackman & McRoss in Battery Point, a popular café with a stellar reputation. The interior was lovely, charming and well thought out, and the pastries and coffee were fresh with a solid variety. That said, while it ticked all the boxes, the food and drinks didn’t particularly stand out. Still, a nice local spot to start the day.

Then it was off to MONA. We opted to drive rather than catch the ferry, but it’s worth noting that MONA offers a 30-minute ferry ride from Hobart’s waterfront, complete with a VIP section if you’re into bubbles and canapés on the way. Sounds like a pretty luxe option if you want to make a day of it.

We arrived before opening and had time to wander the outdoor installations. MONA has loads to see even before you step inside; think interactive walkways, quirky playgrounds, and a giant metal sculpture that... let’s just say it reminds you of a particular rear end 😏. We also downloaded the MONA app, which replaces traditional museum plaques. Instead of reading signs, you use your phone to learn about each piece; a clever way to stay engaged and curate your experience.

Now, I won’t give too much away, because the magic of MONA is going in unprepared. But from the moment you descend into this underground museum, you’re immersed. Even the walls are interesting. From provocative, shocking pieces to stunning light and sound installations, it’s a sensory overload in the best way. Whether you find it all profound or peculiar, you can absolutely feel the passion and intent behind every display. We ended up spending almost the whole day exploring. With multiple restaurants on-site, it’s easy to lose track of time and just be there.

Now, after spending the day in a museum that challenges your mind, what could possibly top that? Well... how about something that challenges your stomach? We jumped in the car and took a beautiful drive out to Richmond, passing by picturesque wineries and cheesemakers, but that’s not where we were heading.

Nope, we were going to the Pooseum. Yes, you read that right; a museum dedicated entirely to poo. A much smaller affair than MONA, the Pooseum is run by a lovely woman with a deep passion for... well, excrement. We were surprised to learn some genuinely fascinating (and slightly gross) facts. It was quirky, bizarre, and absolutely one of those “only in Tasmania” experiences. Supporting someone with such a niche passion felt pretty special and gave us a great story to tell.

We wrapped up the afternoon wandering around Richmond, a sweet little town just 25 minutes from Hobart. We explored the historic model village, browsed local boutiques, tried lavender-based goodies, and soaked up a bit of Tasmania’s rich colonial history.

As for dinner... well, this was not a room service night. It was my birthday, after all! We made a reservation at the Longhorn Smokehouse at the Casino, and yes we ordered steak again. But let me tell you, this was the best steak I’ve ever eaten. Dining in-house was absolutely worth it. Hobart may be a foodie’s paradise, but sometimes, when something’s that good, you just don’t mess with perfection.

Day 4: Gardens, Museums and a Slow Finish

By Day 4, we were feeling a bit tired. We’re not the fittest couple, and all the hills and walking in Hobart had definitely caught up with us, but in the best way. The cool air was such a refreshing change of pace, so we stuck it out and headed to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.

Now, these aren’t gardens like we have back home. Instead of one big expanse, they feel like little themed biomes spread throughout the park. There’s a beautiful Japanese garden, historically styled English terraces, and even a sub-Antarctic plant house you can step inside. It’s definitely worth the visit, and I could easily imagine it being a beautiful venue for a picnic, a wedding, or other special events.

Feeling the museum bug again, we also visited the Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery. While it didn’t quite compare to MONA’s immersive experience, it was still a lovely spot to explore and offered plenty of insight into Hobart’s story, culture and natural history.

Final Thoughts

All in all, our trip was a mix of slow mornings, great food, quirky experiences, and a chance to celebrate a milestone somewhere completely different. Hobart offered us everything we needed art, nature, cool air, friendly locals and some unforgettable moments.

But as much as I enjoyed the trip, I was also happy to come home to Darwin. 
It’s where I live, it’s what I know, and while holidays are fun, there’s nothing quite like returning to the Territory. 😊