Rugged coastlines, sandy beaches, laid-back locals, unique wildlife and lots of sheep – New Zealand’s South Island has a lot to offer. Now might be the time to visit our southern whānau (family). So let’s discover the highlights of Te Waipounamu – the South Island.

WORDS: SASHA OELSNER

 

Christchurch calling

With its one-way streets, tranquil river and colonial architecture juxtaposed beside contemporary buildings, Ōtautahi/Christchurch (or ChCh, to the locals) is a city that has turned adversity into opportunity.

Get your bearings on the hop-on hop-off heritage Christchurch Tram, which may be nostalgic for those old enough to remember red rattlers. Jump on at any of the 18 stops and purchase your all-day pass on board from the driver.

Points of interest include the shimmering Pāua Shell House in the Canterbury Museum, curled silver ferns in the Christchurch Botanic Garden, and the unique A-frame Cardboard Cathedral.

See the city’s namesake Christ Church, which remains under construction more than a decade after the city’s devastating earthquakes. Look for a tiny, cream caravan tucked into a corner outside The Arts Centre, which houses the quaint Custard Square Bookshop.

Belly grumbling? The Avon River waterfront was reimagined following the earthquakes, and now boasts vibrant eateries, microbreweries and vendors. Have lunch with a view at The Craft Embassy and peruse the Riverside Market community hub and market.

The Eastern edge

For spectacular panoramic views, drive or catch the shuttle bus to the Christchurch Gondola. You can get a discount when buying your hop-on hop-off tram ticket. Up here, you can see Quail Island with its varied past. Once a leper colony, it’s now uninhabited conservation land.

If you can see a wisp of smoke below, don’t panic. This is the steam trains and trams at Ferrymead Heritage Park. Explore the re-created Edwardian township depicting life more than 100 years ago, complete with period-style businesses.

Not visible from the gondola is the glistening bay of Akaroa. A short drive from Christchurch, make sure you stop at Barrys Bay Cheese on the way. The result of a failed French colonisation, Akaroa retains hints of its past, with occasional French accents floating on the air and street names with the French equivalent ‘Rue’.
 

East meets the wild west

Departing Christchurch and destined for New Zealand’s West Coast region, the TranzAlpine offers passengers one of the most approachable great train journeys in the world at just under five hours. You’ll be unable to tear your eyes away from the ever-changing landscape as the train weaves through the Southern Alps towards Greymouth.

There are several stops along the route that shouldn’t be missed. Explore Arthur’s Pass – one of the wettest places in New Zealand. Here you may encounter the kea, a very cheeky species of alpine parrot that’ll take off with your belongings given half a chance. Warm up at the Alpine Parrot Café and Bar, then marvel at the Otira Viaduct, where the road seems to float above the deep valley floor.

Along the west coast, a series of towns hug the shore nestled under dramatic mountain ridges. Be boggled by the curious, vertical limestone formations of the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, pan for your future fortune at Shantytown near Greymouth, and choose the perfect Pounamu (jade) amulets in Hokitika. This greenstone should always be a gift
and not bought for oneself, according to Māori culture.

Centre stage

The South Island’s glaciers and Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park are easily accessible from the West Coast and Christchurch. The frost-blue masses of long lunches and home to many wineries the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers inch their way through lush emerald forest between imposing mountains and can be seen on foot or on a bird’s-eye-view scenic flight.

Continue inland to see the perennially white peak of Aoraki/Mount Cook. The country’s highest mountain sits within a national park the size of Singapore. Summer reveals excellent walking and hiking trails, lined with alpine daisies and edelweiss.

Undeniably one of the most beautiful places in New Zealand (and arguably the world) is a short drive from Mount Cook. The beauty of Lake Tekapo stuns one into silence with dazzling spires of sunset purple and pink lupin flowers on the shore and ice-fed water as blue as a fairywren.

Southerly secrets

Milford, Dusky and Doubtful are just some of the fiords that can be explored in the mountainous Fiordland. For a breathtaking experience, tramp the four-day, 54km Milford Track along burbling rivers and swaying rope bridges, and over lofty mountains. If reading that leaves you feeling exhausted, there are many less intrepid, but no-less-stunning walks, from as little as 30 minutes.

Alternatively, board a small boat or large cruise ship, and feel the mist on your face as you sail by the Sound’s cascading waterfalls. Look for dolphins, seals and penguins, and maybe even a whale or two.

Queenstown, renowned for its adrenaline and snow sports pursuits, is the closest city to Fiordland. Sail on the lovingly preserved steamship TSS Earnslaw and glide across the lake and back to town.

Quell any hunger pangs by joining the queue at local favourite Fergburger, or grab a flaky, delicious Fergbaker pie.

Take your racecar dreams and keep going until you reach one of the southernmost cities in the world, Invercargill. See 300 vintage trucks and cars at the Bill Richardson Transport World or visit the nearby Classic Motorcycle Mecca, which houses hundreds of two-wheeled machines.

Once New Zealand’s largest colonial city, Dunedin now prides itself on its biodiversity, and untamed nature and wildlife. Reminders of its heritage remain. Find New Zealand’s only castle, Larnach Castle and Gardens, perched on the ridge of the Otago Peninsula.

The opulent Dunedin Railway Station is one of the city’s most prominent architectural landmarks. Although it no longer services passenger trains, heritage tourist trains often leave from the gingerbread house-style building.

The nourishing north

Nestled among a picturesque alpine forest just 90 minutes north of Christchurch, the geothermal Hanmer Springs is ready to ease your travel-weary muscles. Treat yourself to a massage and soak in soothing minerals or take a quick plunge in a cool pool.

Kaikōura on the north coast is an aquatic mammal haven. Whale Watch Kaikōura boasts a 95 per cent sighting success rate, using specialised technology to predict the time and location majestic sperm whales surface, while pods of dolphins play in the wake.

For a truly local fish and chips experience, head to Cods and Crayfish on the hill in Kaikōura and order a side of black pāua fritters to go with your cray.

Next stop is Marlborough, the land of Christchurch. The frost-blue masses of long lunches and home to many wineries and cellar doors. These cool-climate-yet-sun-dappled vineyards are renowned for producing unparalleled sauvignon blancs.

Journeying around New Zealand’s South Island offers breathtaking scenic drives culminating in charming towns, afternoon bike rides between cellar doors and unhurried city stays finding hidden gems. For travellers, it’s the perfect mix of discovery and relaxation.

IMAGES: Daniel Garland, Getty, Journey Beyond; RAA/Sasha Oelsner

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